Niacinamide, explained
A form of vitamin B3 that turns up in serums, toners and creams. It’s one of the better-studied skincare ingredients, and it suits most skin, including skin over 40.
What it does
Niacinamide helps skin make more of its own ceramides, the fats that hold the outer layer together. A stronger barrier loses less water, which matters more as skin gets drier with age. It also slows the transfer of pigment to the skin’s surface, so it can soften the look of dark spots over time.
What the research shows
In a 12-week split-face study, a 5% niacinamide moisturiser improved the look of fine lines, red blotchiness, yellowing and age spots compared with the same moisturiser without it.
Bissett and colleagues, Dermatologic Surgery, 2005 [1]
Lab and clinical work found niacinamide reduced pigment transfer between skin cells, and 2 to 5% niacinamide lightened hyperpigmentation within four to eight weeks.
Hakozaki and colleagues, British Journal of Dermatology, 2002 [2]
Niacinamide raised ceramide production in skin cells and reduced water loss through the skin, a sign of a healthier barrier.
Tanno and colleagues, British Journal of Dermatology, 2000 [3]
These are small studies, several funded by skincare companies, and results build slowly over weeks rather than days.
How to use it after 40
- Look for 2 to 5%. Higher strengths aren’t proven to work better and are more likely to sting.
- Use it morning or night, after cleansing and before moisturiser.
- It pairs well with retinoids, sunscreen and hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
- Patch test first if your skin is sensitive, and see a doctor about any persistent pigment changes.
Sources
- Bissett DL et al. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005.
- Hakozaki T et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002.
- Tanno O et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000.
This page is general information, not medical advice.